Quinta do Sino ★★★★

Twenty-six rooms on the Bica slope, with a roof that earns its keep twice a day.

Three houses knocked together over four years, which explains why no two floors quite line up and why the corridors are more interesting than corridors usually are. Original azulejo survives on two landings. The roof terrace faces west across the river and is open to guests from seven in the morning, which is the better of its two good hours.

Check in from 15:00. The funicular runs past the door until 21:00 and is louder than it looks.